Last week our three little piggies went to the abattoir. We sent one away to be ‘cured’ for bacon, while at home we are now enjoying tasty pork nearly every night. This is all new to us and the sight of two complete pigs heads fresh for the butchers had us reaching for the River Cottage Meat Book.
I bought a copy of this weight tomb for Cathy’s birthday last year, and I can honestly say it has been worth every penny of its £25 price tag – a veritable Mrs Beetons for a new generation. I shall therefore take the liberty of quoting Hugh’s recipe here word for word. I warn you thought - it’s not for the fainthearted.
Cut the ears away from the head and scrub them thoroughly under a warm tap (pigs have ear wax too). Remove any bristles with a razor or tweezers. Then place with the quartered head in brine for 24 hours. Place the quartered head, ears, trotters, onions, bundle of herbs and bag of spices in a large stockpot.
Cover with water and bring slowly to a gentle simmer. For the first 30 minutes of cooking, skim off any bubbly scum that rises to the surface. Cook, uncovered, at a very gentle simmer for about 4 hours altogether, until all the meat is completely tender and coming away from the bones. Top up the pan occasionally as the water level drops. When cooked, lift out the meat and leave until cool enough to handle. Pick all the meat, skin and fat off the head bones (it should fall off quite easily). Peel the coarse skin off the tongue and discard. Roughly chop all the bits of meat, include the fat and skin and the tongue, and toss together with the chopped parsley and the lemon juice. (Everything except the bone and bristles can go into a brawn, but if you want to make it less fatty, just discard some of the really fatty pieces at this stage.)
Season to taste with a little salt and pepper. Remove the herbs, onions and spices from the cooking liquor and strain it through a fine sieve or, better still, muslin. Stir a few tablespoons of this gelatine rich liquid into the chopped meat to help the brawn set as it cools. Pile the mixture into terrine dishes or a pudding basin. Place a weighted plate or board on top and put in the refrigerator to set.
This, Cathy followed to the letter and what resulted was a very pleasant terrine indeed – a bit like up-market corned beef. If you take my advice though, you won’t tell the kids what’s in it until after lunch!

“Let me get this straight”, said Alice (aged 11¾), “It’s tipping with rain, there is a freezing wind, we are trying to climb our way out of a steep quarry and you want me to carry a dead otter???”
Having made a bit of a joke about the positioning of our new greenhouse (see entry for the 7th January), I now have to report that we have been forced to move it completely to a new temporary home - in a redundant barn.